Richmond Park 2012

Richmond Pond in the Mist

Richmond Pond in the Mist

After my success last year I couldn’t wait for the annual deer rut to come round again. Just as with last year I thought I’d go up a week or two early to try my luck, especially with a bright, clear morning forecast. With the sun set to rise at 6.45 I set the alarm for 5 o’clock and headed out. I didn’t have to go far for my first wildlife experience of the day. As I walked to the car something shuffled behind the car on the opposite side of the road. I assumed it must be a fox but as it emerged the other side it was in fact a badger! Quite possibly the first I’d seen that wasn’t lying dead on the side of a road. I had no idea there were badgers in my culdesac, now I’m dying to know where the set is. Possibly in number 22’s front drive, who knows.

When I arrived it seemed that the hoped for mist wouldn’t materialise, but as I headed for the pond there was a nice layer of mist hanging over that was beginning to spread.

London Skyline from Richmond Park

London Skyline from Richmond Park. Looked absolutely stunning, like something out of Mega City Four, and I wasn’t about to pass it by. I just can’t get enough of the Shard, it’s an awesome building. This is a stitch of 3 photographs

As the sun rose the pond looked absolutely beautiful so I swapped lenses and got a few as the sun broke through the mist. I was in a real dilemna, there were many opportunities at the pond, but the great light wouldn’t last for long and I was here to photograph the deer.

Swan, Richmond Pond

Swan, Richmond Pond, Richmond Park.

Canada Geese, Richmond Pond, Richmond Park

Canada Geese, Richmond Pond, Richmond Park

So after grabbing a couple of shots of Swans and Geese I headed in the direction of the bellowing. As things weren’t in full swing there wasn’t too much to go after, but as a stag emerged from the mist behind the pond myself and 2 or 3 other photographers all descended on it, which sent it packing in the direction of away. This wasn’t going to be easy.

Heron, Richmond Pond, Richmond Park

Heron, Richmond Pond, Richmond Park. A perfect Heron shot has always eluded me so when I saw one posing nicely on the pond I headed back. I’ve always wanted to get one in flight. It was sod’s law that as soon as I turned my back to photograph a stag behind me the heron took flight. One day.

Mute Swans, Richmond Park

Mute Swans flying in formation, Richmond Park

The shot I’d had in my mind of a Stag emerging from the mist, bathed in the rich, golden first light had by this time, along with the mist, evaporated. Undeterred I solderied on hoping to catch something that might compensate. I’d failed last year to get a single decent shot of a fallow deer so it was quite nice to get the shot below.

Fallow Deer, Richmond Park

Fallow Deer, Richmond Park

Deer with Jackdaw pecking its ears, Richmond Park

The jackdaw was having a really good go at this young deer’s head and ears, but the deer, far from being annoyed, looked to be in heaven. Occasionally the jackdaw would go too far and find itself shaken off, but he was very persistent. A nice bit of behaviour to witness and photograph.

Deer and Jackdaw, Richmond Park

Ouch!

Stag, Richmond Park

Puffing Stag, Richmond Park

By now the best of the light was gone and I headed home. I actually felt a little disappointed on the way home, but reviewing the shots I actually think the morning was quite a success.

There was, of course, still that niggle that I hadn’t got what I was after, so I returned the following weekend. The forecast for the Sunday was for a clear start clouding over soon after, so there was a small window of opportunity, and despite a tiring Saturday wandering around Peppa Pig World (not on my own I might point out) I knew I had to give it a go.

The sunrise was beautiful, and although there was absolutely no mist to speak of there was at least going to be some sun. I met  a young photographer by the name of Yusuf Akhtar, and together we headed down the hill and turned right toward the clearing to the right of the pond. A large stag with an impressive bellow was in full view. As we tried to get in front of it it continued onward and it felt for a while as if it was going to be fruitless. Eventually however, he came to rest amongst a small group of younger Stags. It must have been the local Stag hangout. I was then able to get the Stag in front of me with the fast rising Sun behind, and he duly obliged with a few more impressive bellows.

Stag Breath, Richmond Park, Surrey

Stag Breath, Richmond Park, Surrey

More Stag Breath, Richmond Park

More Stag Breath, Richmond Park

Bingo! It was quite an adrenaline rush knowing I had the image in my head playing out before me, so I was very relieved to find I’d got it, and got it sharp. The first of the two images in particular has been very successful. Both made Flickr Explore, and then the first was featured in the Flickr Blog, which saw it’s hits go through the roof. It’s currently had over 4,000 views, by far my most successful image to date.

North Wales

Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

I must confess that when I suggested North Wales as a possible holiday destination it wasn’t entirely with the kids’ sole interests at heart. Clare, long since used to my not so hidden agenda, and with a certain sense of resignation, duly obliged and booked a week in a log cabin in Bronaber, on the southern tip of Snowdonia National Park. I’d been to this part of the world before (see here), but I was keen this time to see some of the fantastic wildlife on offer too. Here are some of the photographic highlights. I could bore you with tales of our trips to the beach but I’m not sure you want to hear it.

Glaslyn Osprey Project

Inspired by Iolo Williams Wild Wales series I was keen to see the Ospreys, so first on the agenda was a trip to the Glaslyn Osprey Project. Although we did get to see them through a very powerful scope, there wasn’t really the opportunity to photograph them up close. Talking to one of the volunteers there, they may well lose their funding next year, so I’d urge anyone to pay them a visit and register your support.

Trawsfynydd Lake

Perhaps the most striking feature of this lake is the whacking great nuclear power station positioned down one end. Thankfully it’s a very big lake and so from the south end you can’t see it at all. I ventured out the first evening when the conditions looked promising, and as it was a mile from our cabin it didn’t take long to get there. It was still a bit of a panic getting set up in time though but I managed to get it in the bag just before the sun disappeared behind the hill.

Trawsfynydd Lake

Trawsfynydd Lake, Snowdonia National Park, Wales

Mist at Bronaber, Snowdonia National Park, Wales

Mist at Bronaber, Snowdonia National Park, Wales. Returning from Trawsfynydd Lake I was confronted by this. It was going to be a long night.

I then returned a couple of nights later and pointed the camera in the opposite direction. The tree and stone wall were too good to ignore and the great light didn’t hurt either. I then headed out into the mountains and found the view below in time for sunset.

Trawsfynydd Lake, Snowdonia National Park, Wales

Trawsfynydd Lake, Snowdonia National Park, Wales

Whinchat, Trawsfynydd Lake, Wales

Whinchat, Trawsfynydd Lake, Wales. I’d attempted, without success to photograph the numerous Swallows that reside by the lake. Then I spotted this Whinchat sitting motionless in the field. She very obligingly waited long enough until I was sure I had a sharp one to take home.

Rolling Hills, Snowdonia National Park

Rolling Hills, Snowdonia National Park

Beaumaris

No holiday is complete for me without a boat trip, and so with the promise of puffins and seals we headed to Beaumaris in Anglesey to hop aboard the Puffin Island cruise. Being August however, all the puffins had gone but there were at least a few seals on show, not to mention quite a few cormorant, and I even spotted a couple of sandwich tern. Beaumaris itself is very pretty and well worth a visit, definitely worth the journey.

Swallow, Beaumaris, Anglesey, Wales

There’s an awful lot of Swallows in Wales. Photographing them in flight is extremely difficult. Photographing them whilst perched on a telegraph line, not so difficult.

The Red Kites of Ceredigion

Nine miles east of Aberystwyth on the A44, in the bottom of a beautiful valley, sits the Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre. Every day, at 3pm, they feed the Red Kites. I’d long been fascinated by these beautiful birds, and although I’d dragged the family off the beach and made them sit in a hot, sweaty car for almost 2 panic stricken hours behind a tractor that wouldn’t go over 30 on a road that allowed for no overtaking, I only felt a slight twinge of guilt. We just made it just in time and I rushed down the hill to a beautiful lake where on the opposite bank they were laying out the food. Around 100 or so kites were circling up above, and then one by one began swooping down to pick up the meat. It was absolutely awesome, a real spectacle, and one I won’t forget for a while. It took a while to get in the groove, it was sod’s law that despite clear skies all day, the moment I got the camera out the clouds came in. I had to resort to ISO 800 to freeze the action, not ideal, but you can at least sort out the noise later, but with blurred, noise free shots, you’re kind of left with nothing.

Leucistic Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Leucistic Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Little Grebes, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Ceredigion Forest, Wales

Swooping Red Kites in the background. Little Grebe feeding chick with a newt in the foreground. I admit I was quite torn.

Leucistic Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales

Leucistic Red Kite, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales. Not to be confused with an albino bird. I heard someone say there’s only eight of these in the world. I have no idea whether there’s any truth in that but he certainly was rather special. Or she.

I have to say I can’t speak highly enough of this visitor centre. Aside from a very reasonable £1.50 for parking it’s free to get in, it’s an absolutely stunning setting and there’s even an adventure playground for the kids while you disappear off. On top of that they have a large feeder up by the cafe where you’ll see a number of species including chaffinch, greenfinch, siskin, coal tits, nuthatch and even redpoll.

Greenfinch, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales

Greenfinch, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales. Having struggled to photograph the Greenfinch that occasionally visits our back garden I wasn’t going to look this particular gift horse in the mouth.

Chaffinch, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales

Chaffinch, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Visitor Centre, Wales. For a long time I didn’t have a decent Chaffinch shot in the bag, now they seem to pop up everywhere I look.

A great end to a great week, it certainly won’t be too long before I return here again.

London Wild Bird Watch 2012

Heron

Heron with a Newt, London Wetlands Centre, Barnes

I went up to the London Wild Bird Watch event at the London Wetlands Centre in Barnes today along with a few birder friends, Ryan and Euan, along with Euan’s neighbours John and Shelagh. In the car on the way up they tried to convince me that they were birders, not twitchers. Whatever. Mind you, I’m usually met with the same response. It was a beautiful morning, so upon arrival I obeyed my first rule, to strike while the iron is hot, and got straight out with the camera, conscious of the fact that the weather was forecast to close in come the afternoon. I headed along the South Route, making my way directly to the Wader Scrape Hide at the far end.  The Scrape is quite sheltered, not least by the Sand Martin bank to the left, giving a nice flat, reflective water surface. Definitely don’t want choppy conditions if I can help it. I was rewarded with a Lapwing and a Redshank feeding in the shallows.

Lapwing

Lapwing at the Wader Scrape, London Wetland Centre

I think Lapwings are beautiful and unique looking birds, and I’ve been wanting to capture one for a while so this was one off the list. The Redshank was a nice bonus.

Redshank, Wader Scrape,  LWC

Redshank, Wader Scrape, London Wetland Centre

Redshank and Lapwing, Wader Scrape, LWC

At one point the pair of them crossed paths. Nice.

Then as luck would have it I noticed the Little Grebe very close to the hide. Another off my wanted list.

Little Grebe, Wader Scrape, LWC

Little Grebe, Wader Scrape, London Wetland Centre

Returning back to the Cafe a group of people were huddled round some old wood. Turns out there were a few Common Lizards sunning themselves. Time to obey the second rule, don’t look a gift horse in the mouth. So despite the fact we were all supposed to be meeting up for lunch I got the tripod out and began setting up…

Common Lizard, LWC

If this were a snake then the 'S' would be really relevant and would show what a great conceptualist I was. But its a Lizard. Unfortunately.

As if the Lizards weren’t enough (I know, I was beside myself) I then spotted some beautiful fritillaries. What’s more there were bees collecting pollen from them. Rule number two kicked in again.

Fritillary with a Bee collecting pollen

Fritillary with a Bee collecting pollen

Fritillaries, LWC

Fritillaries under more subtle light, London Wetland Centre

All these distractions meant that by the time I’d got back to the Cafe my ‘friends’ had finished their lunch and got up. At the time I blamed it on the rain that had begun to fall, but in retrospect I think it was resentment that I know all twitchers feel toward photographers. They would never admit it of course, but they seemed mighty keen to lose me. Ah well, people say I’m paranoid… I know they do.

Undeterred, we all headed off together to the main marquee to hear a very interesting talk from Simon King. Simon spoke passionately about maintaining the enthusiasm for nature in the coming generations, before moving on to some of his favourite subjects, foxes and otters. I think the highlight for me though were the live webcams watching over the Peregrine Falcons nesting in Charing Cross, a stone’s throw from the Wetland Centre. He then topped it off by bringing on a captive Peregrine to the stage, a stunning bird. Throughout the talk the rain thundered down on the marquee roof to such an extent it made it difficult to hear at times! We’d done well to get out in the morning as conditions had definitely taken a turn for the worse.

After the talk we had a good look round the stalls, of particular interest to me was Oliver Smart’s stand, some stunning photography, definitely worth checking out if you get the chance. The sharpness and detail blew me away. I avoided the Canon stand as I knew any sudden impulse buys wouldn’t go down well with the missus. Or the bank manager.

We then headed out via the West Route and another chance to photograph Little Grebe presented itself.

Little Grebe, LWC

This little fella gave me the complete run around. Not long after this shot he dived down and quite simply never came up again. I looked everywhere but couldn't find him. He's probably still down there now.

Returning from the Wildside Hide a Heron landed very near. This could at last be my chance to get a decent Heron shot.

Heron, LWC

Getting closer to a good Heron shot, but the foreground reeds are going to annoy me every time I see this shot. Same with the shot at the top of the page, without the foreground reeds it would be damn fine shot.

After a final trip along the South route we headed home, just about beating the rain once more. A very enjoyable day, and glad to at last have got decent shots of Little Grebe, Heron and Lapwing. Euan seemed happy with his ‘list’, 48 species apparently. It’s a different world.

Surrey Life Cover

Surrey Life Cover, November Edition

Surrey Life Cover, November Edition

I’m very proud to say that my photo of two Red Deer Stags Rutting has made in onto the cover of the November Edition of Surrey Life magazine. It’s the realisation of one of my goals so I’m extremely chuffed. It’s the first time they’ve featured a ‘reader’s photo’ on the cover, so it’s nice to be a part of a little bit of history! The image appears again inside as part of Surrey Life’s ‘Beautiful Surrey’ feature, containing photos sent in from their readers.

It also featured in the Surrey Advertiser ‘Picture Surrey’ supplement, both on the cover and repeated again inside, so this particular image has done very well for me!

Forest Stewardship Council Competition Winner!

Bluebells, Micheldever Woods, Hampshire

Bluebells, Micheldever Woods, Hampshire

I’m very pleased and proud to say I’ve won the Forest Stewardship Council UK Summer Photo Competition! My photo of the Bluebells at Micheldever Woods one fine misty morning may have fallen at the first hurdle at the Landscape Photographer of the Year Awards but its finally come up trumps!

You can find out more information about the FSC UK and the other competition winners here.

The Deer Rut, Richmond Park, Surrey

or…how I fell fallow of the law(!)

Stags in the Mist

Stags in the Mist

Much as I enjoy bird photography I felt I was in danger of being pigeon-holed (sorry), so thought I would get myself along to Richmond Park to photograph some deer for a change. Although the rut isn’t supposed to peak until mid October I thought it would be a good idea to get some practice in and with the promise of good weather I thought it was too good an opportunity to miss. I set the alarm for 5 o’clock and headed up the M3. The mist rising from every field I passed was incredible. I got to the gates at 6.30, and as they weren’t letting cars in until 7 o’clock I decided to have a little wander round and capture the very first sunlight of the day, as the sky turned pink.

Branch in the Mist

Old Branch in the Mist

Then I headed back to the car as soon as the gates were open and started the search for deer. It didn’t take long, within a minute or two I’d found two Red Deer rutting.

Two Stag Rutting

Two Red Deer Stags Square Up

The Winner!

The Winner! I think that might be the sheepish loser retreating over to the left.

In my haste though, I’d parked the car at the side of the road and looked round to see the Met Police whacking a fine on my car. With the sun just peaking out from behind the trees I had to wrench myself away to go park the car somewhere sensible. Like a car park. I hot footed it back to the spot, feeling like I just couldn’t get there quick enough. It was like those dreams you have when you’re running on the spot and can barely move. There was about half hour of beautiful golden light. Think I successfully managed to miss most of it. I did however get this chap as he crossed my path, so every cloud and all that.

A Stag in the orange light of morning

A Stag in the orange light of morning

More rutting fun

More rutting fun. The fella in the background was an added bonus.

As I crested the brow of the hill the light was pouring through the trees creating a wonderful atmosphere, and that’s when I got the shot at the top of the page. As the sun rose higher in the sky the mist soon burnt off, and as the clouds rolled in there was a far more subdued light. I went in search of other opportunities. A number of stags were all trying to out do each other with their calls. I found the guy below giving a good account of himself in the bracken.

Stag in the Bracken

Stag in the Bracken

The loudest however, by some margin, was the fellow below. A very deep, booming voice, a bit like Brian Blessed.

The King of the, er, Park

The King of the, er, Park

After this he then went in search of some adornment for his antlers. I’m sure that would’ve impressed the ladies no end.

With a full card and flat light I resolved to return again at the first sight of a clear day. Thankfully the following week saw the hottest October on record, and so I again made the journey up the M3. The weather was perfect, with a thick mist to begin with, so thick in fact that it was difficult to find where the bellowing was coming from, and then as the sun came up there were some beautiful conditions with light filtering through the trees. The mist eventually burnt off and we were treated to some beautiful early morning light. When I say ‘we’ I mean myself and the other 200 or so photographers in the park! There were a crazy number there, and at times keeping them out of shot was quite a challenge.

Stag Head shot

This guy passed right in front of me, a little too close for comfort.

The rut really was in full swing, quite a contrast with the week before when things were just warming up. The air was thick with the sound of stags bellowing all around you. The majority of the action was taking part in a clearing, with photographers lining the edge, all vying for position.

Warm Light

The nice warm light I'd been hoping for. Nice pose too.

I got a few in the bag and then moved on to try and find opportunities elsewhere. As I made my way back to the car, I had the Stag below blocking my path. He seemed to have quite a nark on, and so I stopped in my tracks and waited. And then set the camera up. Hell, if he was going to charge I was at least going to get a decent shot. Eventually he seemed to calm down, as did my heart rate, and I returned to the car happy. And without a parking ticket this time, which was nice!

Nark On

He's got a right nark on!

Canon EF 100-400mm L Series USM Lens Plus 1.4x Extender Review

Rabbit, Centerparcs, Longleat Fores

Handheld at 400mm, f8, 320th sec.

I’ve owned this lens for almost a year now and so thought I’d put down a few thoughts I had on the lens in the hope it may be helpful to anyone thinking of purchasing it. First off, I know that being a zoom the quality won’t be up to that of a prime, but having said that my initial reaction when first using it was WOW! I’ve used Canon’s 500mm f4 L Series and yes, it is an amazing lens, but the 100-400mm isn’t that far off! The image stabilisation is incredible and has enabled me to get pin sharp images handheld at 400mm with little problem.

Prior to owning this lens I’d been using no more than a Sigma 72-300mm zoom with a Sony Alpha 200, but I realised that in order to continue my progress and make the step up I would have to get a far more capable lens. To be fair, I had managed to get the odd decent image, but successes were far less frequent than I would’ve liked. The Canon 100-400mm gives you a far greater chance of success.

Robin

Robin, shot at f9, 1000th sec with 1.4 Extender, camera resting on window ledge.

Redpoll

Shot with 1.4x Extender fitted, resting camera on a window ledge. This shows perfectly sharp images are possible with the extender, just so long as the bird keeps still!

One thing I don’t think is an issue with the Extender is the loss of a full stop. I’ve found that at f5.6 the depth of field is just too shallow. For instance, focusing on a birds eye at f5.6 will render the feet out of focus, so I always find myself using f8 with or without the extender. More recently I’ve been experimenting with f9, and I seem to be getting more reliable, and sharper, results. In summer you can get away with an ISO of anywhere between 200 to 800, but come the winter 1600 or even 3200 ISO is more likely, and then you have the problem of noise. Add a little sharpening in post and it only makes it worse. I’m currently looking at Noise Reduction Solutions, and NIK Software’s Dfine looks pretty useful.

Coal Tit

Shot at f9, 1/400th sec., ISO800 with extender fitted. f9 seems to give just that little bit more depth of field that ensures better front to back sharpness on the bird.

On the plus side, the flexibility of having a zoom comes in very useful at times. I do still dream of owning a 500mm, but there would be times when the weight and inflexibility would have meant losing shots. The ideal solution of course would be to own both! Unless I win the lottery however it’ll remain just a dream.

One thing that seems to have been made a large fuss of is the push/pull mechanism. I have to say it really is much ado about nothing, it very soon becomes second nature. For the majority of the time you’re using it at full extension anyway, its not too often your subject gets TOO close as we all know.

Kingfisher

Tripod mounted, with 1.4x Extender fitted, cable release.

To extend or not to extend?
The downside is of course the maximum focal length. 400mm is still often just not long enough, hence why I bought the 1.4x Extender. When I first purchased the kit I did a fair amount of practising in the back garden with the birds. With extender fitted, tripod mounted and a cable release, prefocusing on the perch I was able to get some sharp shots. Over time, and with a little practice I’m now able to dispense with the tripod and instead rest the camera on the ledge and still manage to get very sharp images. However, when photographing the Grebes for instance, when prefocusing is out of the question, the success rate rapidly diminishes. Because I’m using a 500D body I lose the autofocus and image stabilisation with the extender on, and so in these instances I would say go without extender and crop in post if needs be. With autofocus enabled, and set to AI Servo you’ll have a much greater chance of capturing the moment. Its also important when using AI Servo to use centre weighted metering rather than spot otherwise you’ll get some wildy differing exposures when firing off several frames in quick succession. I almost without exception set the camera to Aperture Priority and then under expose by around 2/3rds of a stop.

In summary I would most definitely recommend this lens. At just over a grand it is far more affordable than the 9 grand or so for a 500mm. If you’re wondering how it compares with the L Series 400mm Prime you may also be interested to read my article on the subject here.

Blue Tit

f9, 1/400th sec, ISO800. Check out the detail on the lichen!

Squirrel, Centerparcs, Longleat Forest

Handheld at 400mm, f8, 250th sec.

Anyway, hope my two pennies worth helps anyone who may be undecided.

Grebes in the Mist

Grebe in the Mist

One of those rare moments when everything just comes together. I was photographing the ducks in the middle distance when I noticed the Grebe to my right about to enter the shot. I quickly refocused and hoped for the best. It was just good fortune that he moved into the pool of light in the foreground.

I’ve just had a morning of photography that you normally only ever dream about. We’d been for a walk at the nearby canal the weekend before and spotted a couple of Great Crested Grebes. I’d been wanting to photograph these for a while and so resolved at the next available opportunity to go and photograph them.

Things began to look very promising on the Friday night. The rain gave way to a beautiful sunset, and as I walked past a local lake on the way home I noticed all the mist rising up off it. I began to feel a little excited. I set the alarm for 6 o’clock and after a quick breakfast I was soon down by the canal. Conditions were absolutely perfect. The morning sun was filtering through the trees and a thick mist was rising up off the water, just a beautiful morning. A Grebe appeared very shortly thereafter through the mist and I managed to get the shot below.

Grebe out of the Mist

I think he knew he looked good

I followed this one for a little while before I lost him as he dived down, so went searching further along to see what I could find. It wasn’t long before I came across the female waiting patiently for her beau. When he returned they started heading straight towards me to a part of the canal that narrows and to my utter delight started a courtship ritual. The ritual is quite a bizarre thing, much shaking of the head and strange noises. I couldn’t believe my luck, I’d hoped I might be able to capture this event but hadn’t really thought I would see it, let alone see it played out five yards in front me. I fumbled frantically as I attempted to frame the shot and focus properly (tricky with the light), but thank heaven I managed to get a few good ones.

Grebe Courting

Well I was impressed with his head shaking display, even if she wasn't

Grebe Courting Part 2

It must be love...love.....love.

I’d have been quite satisfied with my lot after this, but whilst crouched down at the bank a nuthatch appeared right next to me to collect mud for his nest. Again I frantically turned the camera around on its tripod and attempted to focus, all the while expecting to scare it off. But he was obviously for too preoccupied with his nest building to much mind me and gave me enough time to fire a few frames off.

Nuthatch

Nuthatch collecting mud for his nest

I’d attempted to photograph these birds unsuccessfully up at Newlands Corner, but this guy was far more accommodating. What’s more, I know where his nest is now so I’ll be back for more!

Sunlight through the trees

Sunlight through the trees. I've lived near here for over 10 years and walked this stretch many times, but never have I seen it look this beautiful.

Just when I thought things couldn’t get any better I heard the sound of waxwings up in the tree above me. Ever since hearing about their invasion on Autumnwatch with Chris Packham waxing lyrical about them I’d wanted to capture these beautiful birds. My brother had seen them a number of times outside his house, but I was never able to get over there. Then one Sunday a whole flock appeared at the end of my garden, but the weather was pants and they were too far off for any decent shots. The weather today was perfect but they were very high up and I was having trouble keeping steady enough. I tried tripod mounting and contorting my back as I pointed the lens up to the skies and managed to get one or two passable shots.

Waxwing

Waxwing striking a pose

You looking at me?

You looking at me?

Finding a decent angle where there wasn’t half a tree in the way was difficult, but after the morning I’d had I wasn’t about to complain.

The one thing this all demonstrated to me is there’s often little need to travel miles in search of opportunities, sometimes you don’t need to look much further than your own doorstep. The beauty is that I can return again and again and hopefully get many more shots of the Great Crested Grebe. Heck, the chicks will be along soon!

Pensive Grebe

A Grebe in pensive mood. I think maybe he'd left some cheese on top of the fridge and has just remembered.

Iceland, June 2009

I’ve always been fascinated by Iceland, and it was our original intention to honeymoon there, but instead ended up going to Canada. But I always intended to one day make it here. With the advent of 2 kids I hadn’t been away outside Britain for some time, but with air fares to Iceland being really cheap it began to look like a possibility. My only problem was finding someone to go with, and for a while nobody seemed interested. Then Big Rich stepped up and said he’d love to come, and when mentioning it to another friend, Colin, he then wanted to join us, and finally Grant then decided, at the very last minute, that he too was in. I was quite relieved when Grant joined us, as a fellow photographer he’d be a useful ally when the others had decided we’d stayed really quite long enough in one spot taking photographs!

We decided that as it was only the one week we wouldn’t try and spread ourselves too thinly and so planned the route to spend a day or two in Reykyavik before sticking to the south coast, heading east as far as Hofn before heading back the way we’d come.

The Blue Lagoon
As we touched down at Keflavik airport we were greated by bright sunshine and a cloudless sky. We picked up the 4×4 hire car and headed straight for The Blue Lagoon, a geothermally heated, bright blue pool thick with mineral deposits that I’m told are very good for the complexion. You can also buy a beer in the middle of the pool, it was all so nice and relaxing none of us wanted to get out. After 4 hours we eventually dragged ourselves out and headed to Reykyavik to book into our hostel.

Blue Lagoon

A friendly Chinese couple that wanted their picture taken, Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon

Big Rich covered in mineral deposits, Blue Lagoon

Colin was intent on having Lobster Soup in an authentic Icelandic restaurant, but the first night we were running out of time and ended up in an american style diner with a sarcastic waitress. I was just glad to see the locals had a sense of humour, even if she was taking the mick out of us.

The following day we went whale watching. As well as a humpback we had a minke whale pass right under the boat. It was one of those times I should’ve just put my camera down and enjoyed the moment, as in trying to photograph it I missed most of the action. Ah well.

That evening we did actually get to eat in a little restaurant on the sea front. Colin got his Lobster soup, and I think I had tuna salad or something similar. Also on the menu was Minke Whale, which I wasn’t too happy about, but decided against launching a protest.

Viking Sculpture, Reykjavik

Viking Longship Monument, Solfar Sculpture, Reykjavik

Gullfoss and Strukkor
The following morning, after photographing the Viking Sculpture on the sea front we headed out to Gullfoss, a massive waterfall, I think the second largest in Europe and an awesome sight(Dettifoss in the north of Iceland is the largest). On the way we also took in the Geysir, Strukkor, that must shoot up a hundred feet plus into the air and goes off every 10 minutes. After exhausting Gullfoss we started making our way to the next hostel at Skogarfoss.

Strukkor

Strukkor blowing off some steam

Blue Pool at Strukkor

Blue Pool at Strukkor

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

Seljalandsfoss
As the evening light began to kick in we rounded the corner to be confronted by the truly beautiful sight of Seljalansfoss sitting pretty in the middle of the landscape. I’ve always had a thing about waterfalls, and Iceland being ‘The Land of Waterfalls’ is certainly the place to be, and this was probably the most beautiful waterfall I’d ever seen. It’s around 60 metres tall, with the added bonus that you can walk behind it. We spent a good couple of hours here photographing before deciding it really was about time we made our way to the hostel.

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss. To give a sense of scale you can just see Big Rich about to walk behind the rainbow. Not looking quite so big here.

When we got there they’d locked the front door! We managed to persuade one of the tenants to let us in, and then I had to ring the owner, who’d long since gone home, but thankfully she wasn’t too annoyed, and thankfully our beds were still available.

Skogarfoss
The hostel sits at the base of yet another awesome waterfall, Skogarfoss, so we spent the following morning here, before pushing onward to our next stop at Hvoll.

Skogarfoss

Skogarfoss

On the way we stopped at Vik for lunch and had a look round. We found an Artic Tern colony and spent a good hour amongst them, being dive-bombed as we tried to photograph them!

Artic Tern at Vik

Artic Tern at Vik

Hvoll on the map gave the impression of being a large town, but in actual fact was just a hostel in the middle of nowhere, although in Icelandic terms I suppose that does constitute a town! It was however, the nicest we stayed in, brilliant facilities, really nicely kept, and some great photos on the walls for inspiration.

From Hvoll we travelled out the following morning to the turf roofed church and houses. The church is tiny, the smallest church in the country. If you go inside there’s a piano, a small altar and pew, and that’s about it.

Turf Church, nr Hvoll

18th century turf covered chapel at Núpsstaður, nr Hvoll

Vatnajökull
We then headed toward Skaftafell National Park, with the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull. Just before you get there you’re confronted by a sculpture of 2 of the steel girders from the bridge that was destroyed when the volcano exploded in 1996 and sent massive icebergs and floods downriver.

Steel Girders

Girders from the bridge destroyed in the floods from the volcano at Vatnajökull in 1996

We booked an ice hike on the Svínafellsjökull glacier, one of the tongues of the Vatnajökull ice cap. Another great day blessed with great weather.

Glacier hike

Grant and Rich Ice Hiking on the Svínafellsjökull glacier, Vatnajökull, with our guide from the Icelandic Mountain Guides. See what they've done there.

After we’d had a nice cup of tea we then hiked up a steep climb to yet another waterfall, Svartifoss, distinctive due to the basalt columns that surround it.

Svartifoss

Svartifoss. Just behind me was a massive column that looked just about ready to come down. I was glad to get the shot and move the hell away from there!

The following day we started making our way to Hofn, stopping off on the way at the magical Jökulsarlon, a lagoon that has 3 or 4 glacial tongues feeding into it. The lagoon is filled with ice bergs that slowly float out to sea, a very serene atmosphere. Big Rich got into the spirit by sitting inside a small stone circle with a bottle of vodka and his iPod. The lagoon also has a number of Harbour Seals that I was able to get reasonably close to before a couple of idiots just charged straight up to them. Thanks then!

Seals

Harbour Seals, Jökulsarlon

Jokulsarlon

Ice floes, Jokulsarlon

Höfn was not what we expected at all, almost a ghost town with very few people on the streets. Rich had been to Iceland before and insisted we try horse-riding as apparently it was ‘really easy’, so we decided to give it a go. I’ve never been too keen to get on a horse, it seems an awful long way down, but with Icelandic horses being considerably shorter I thought I’d give it a go. Can’t say as I felt too comfortable but managed to stay on, which is more than can be said for Colin, and the sight of 6 foot 4 Grant with his legs dangling almost to the floor on a horse with a mind of its own made it all worthwhile.

After a night spent at Höfn we began the journey back. The weather took a turn for the worse, we re-visited Jökulsarlon but the rain took the edge off it. We stayed for another night at Hvoll before heading back to Reykjavik. We thought it might be a good idea to head through the middle and see the brightly coloured rocks and steam pools. Petrol was running a bit low but we thought it would be ok, until that was we came across a stream running across the road. We’d been warned against trying to cross these, cars can very easily get lifted up and swept downstream, but we’d come so far it seemed too much hassle to drive all the way back and petrol might become a factor. Colin in his panic decided to reverse the car into a rock, smashing the rear tail light. Rich waded through the stream with his trousers rolled up to see how deep it was. We were very close to doing it before an Icelandic couple turned up in their car, and laughed at the suggestion of crossing. So we turned back, and I thank God we did, because the bill for that car would’ve left us all in debt for a number of years!

4x4

Grant, Colin and Rich and the 4x4 during happier times before its 'little accident'

We visited Þingvellir on the way back, where you can stand between 2 continental plates, so I’m told one of only 2 places in the world you can do that. Don’t ask me where the other one was because I can’t remember. We had a last night out in Reykjavik before returning the car and thankfully being able to distract them enough during the inspection for them not to notice the smashed light.

I’d definitely recommend Iceland to anyone. At only 3 and a half hours away there’s the proximity in its favour, but far beyond that is its unique landscape. Mile upon mile of solidified lava fields with very little vegetation, stunning waterfalls, glaciers and an abundance of wildlife. The people are very friendly, but also very curious, you’ll notice them staring at you which is a little strange at first. Don’t think I would ever get used to their water, being pumped up from the ground their heating bills are very low but the downside is it stinks of sulphur. Next time I go I’ll hope that it coincides with another volcano going off, now there’s a shot just waiting to be taken!

Pembrokeshire and the Story of the Standing Stones

Oct 06
I love Pembrokeshire, its such a beautiful part of the world, with many photographic opportunities, an abundance of wildlife and not least several standing stones! I’ve got a thing about standing stones, and so it was with this in mind that myself and Grant travelled down for the weekend in his camper van and booked ourselves onto a campsite.

The first morning the sunrise didn’t look that promising, but then things began to improve so we had to race from the wrong side of Fishguard to the Pentre Ifan standing stones.  When we arrived the cloud was covering the sun, but it soon made way for some glorious early morning light.

Pentre Ifan

Pentre Ifan Standing Stones, Pembrokeshire

From here we then headed down to St. Davids and booked ourselves onto a boat trip on a very fast and bumpy zodiac around Ramsey Island. Located here are the largest concentration of Atlantic grey seals in the south, and there were quite a few on the beaches, with several coming out to see us. In fact, even before boarding the boat we found a seal pup that had come ashore just to the left of the jetty, so managed to get a few shots up close. The geological make up of the island was also very interesting, not being dissimilar to the Giant’s Causeway in places, and their are a great number of guillemots, razorbills, kttiwakes and fulmars on the cliffs.

Sealpup

Atlantic Grey Seal Pup run ashore

After the boat trip it was back to the camper van for a nice cup of tea and some cheese sandwiches left over from the day before, but still tasted great (thanks Clare!) We took it easy for a couple of hours before heading to Dinas Head for the sunset.

Dinas Head

Dinas Head Sunset, Pembrokeshire

A great end to great day.

June 08
I returned again in 2008, this time with the family. This time we stayed at Trefin on a small caravan park that was conveniently situated between The Carig Sampson standing stones and a stone circle a mile or so in the other direction!

My main aim was to photograph the puffins on Skomer Island, and with the first sign of the sun we headed out to Milford Haven and boarded the boat across. A word of advice to anyone going to Skomer Island – pack plenty of food and drink, there’s none on the island! We learnt the hard way, and after a frustrating walk each carrying a child that was getting heavier, hungrier and more irritable by the second we finally had to throw in the towel. We retreated back to the building that sits in the middle of the island for refuge, and it was only then I realised the puffins were only a 10 or 15 minute walk from here. So another word of advice – if it’s the puffins you want to see just head straight for the building in the middle and turn left. So with tempers strained I managed to negotiate a half hour release in which I hot footed over to the puffins. It was incredible just how close you could get to them, they really didn’t mind your presence. I didn’t want to push my luck with Clare so after 10 minutes I had a few decent shots and left.

Puffin, Skomer Island

Puffin, Skomer Island

On the way back I noticed a hide, so I went in for a quick look to see gulls collecting mud for their nests.

Gull Collecting Mud

Gull Collecting Mud

I headed out one evening to get Carig Sampson, but was more than a little nervous of all the cows and bullocks in the field, so bottled it and decided to head for the stone circle. Along the way I stopped and got a nice shot from the top of the cliffs out across the sea.

Trefin

Trefin

When I then arrived at the stone circle I was quite horrified to find cows in this field too! So I thought dammit, its Carig Sampson I really want, I’m just going to have to overcome my fear and get in that field. Before I did I checked with the farmer first, and she said the cows were ok, and were quite used to people walking through the fields. As soon as I entered they all got up and started to move off. Whilst I was in the middle of it though, they became braver and started to move closer! I began to get distinctly nervous, these were really quite big let me tell you! They then moved further round so they were now between me and my exit with the big ones asembling at the front. I had visions of them chasing me round the stones Benny Hill style. Once I’d got some shots in the bag I tentatively made my way back and was mightily relieved  to throw my leg over the gate and get the hell out of there. My legs were shaking!

Carig Sampson

Carig Sampson Standing Stones. The cows are to the left of the shot planning an assault!

I noticed on the way back a lovely little fishing port called Abercastle so returned there the following evening and got a couple of nice sunset shots.

Abercastle

Abercastle Sunset

Snowdonia, Feb 2005

Mount Snowdon

Across Llynnau Mymbryr to Mount Snowdon

This was one of those magical mornings of photography that you are so very rarely lucky enough to experience. The light was as good as I think I’ve ever photographed in. It hadn’t always looked so promising however. We drove up the day before. I’d suggested to Grant, having seen Joe Cornish’s photographs at Mewslade Bay, that we check it out on the way. Hardly on the way I know, so instead of taking the much faster M40 we found ourselves tootolling up the middle of Wales. It began to snow and before long we were in the midst of a very heavy snow storm. I can honestly say it was the worst conditions I’ve ever had the displeasure to drive in. Visibility was shocking and I was hanging on to the coat tails of the car in front for guidance, although we barely ever exceeded 20mph. On every corner I thought we were going to carry straight on, and in the hills it was particularly hairy. I kept thinking to myself ‘What are we doing?? What a complete waste of time!’,  but by this point we’d reached the point of no return.

Thankfully we made it to our B&B in one piece, and the snow did eventually stop. The following morning we set the alarm for 6 o’clock and were down one end of Llynnau Mymbryr all set up and waiting. It really didn’t look like anything was going to materialise, there was broken cloud, but it was all quite grey. Then as we were chatting we noticed the clouds behind us were starting to turn pink! We rushed back to our cameras, and then had the most amazing couple of hours photographing. For 10 minutes or so initially the whole sky was lit up pink with everything reflected perfectly on a very still lake.

Mount Snowdon

Across Llynnau Mymbryr to Mount Snowdon

The light continued to change without losing any of its drama, and as the sun rose higher in the sky it lit up all the bracken to the right hand side of the lake. I was shooting Velvia at the time and it captured all the vibrant colours I remembered beautifully.

Mount Snowdon

The sun lighting up the horseshoe rather nicely

The light hitting the bracken, Mount Snowdon

Bracken, Mount Snowdon

I guess the one thing I took from all this was how sometimes good light follows bad weather. Not always the case of course, but never let it put you off!

Hong Kong, Dec 2002

Prior to arriving in New Zealand we scheduled a 3 day stop off in Hong Kong. This was my very first long haul journey, I hadn’t really ventured much beyond Europe prior to this, and I think what struck me most was what a small world we live in. I hadn’t really expected to walk into a Hard Rock Cafe, much less be able to sit and watch premier league football. It just surprised me that I was half way round the world, in a culture very different to our own, and yet good old english football was such a big thing. It was brought home to me even more when we were in New Zealand and Farnborough Town Football Club was mentioned on the radio. Small world. I wonder if David Beckham knows that in Hong Kong his name is being used to sell Brazil nuts?!

As we descended into Hong Kong airport it was dawn and the island was covered in a hazy orange fog. It felt a little like landing in Jurassic Park, and fitted the image I had of the place entirely. We were then taken to our very plush hotel on the Kowloon Peninsula and slept off our jet lag.

Hong Kong  Skyline

Hong Kong skyline at night

Waking next day we took the Star Ferry across to Hong Kong Island. Waiting on the other side were two old boys who didn’t look like they had long left offering us a ride on their rikshaws. We couldn’t say no, and it was just the funniest thing being carted up a hill by a man who looked like he may keel over at any second. Even the locals were taking the mick. Eventually they had to stop and we got out and had a good look round the municipal gardens. The view down the hill across all the skyscrapers was amazing. There were also a number of people practicing their tai-chi in the gardens, as indeed they do everywhere in Hong Kong. Some with knives.

tai-chi

Tai-Chi Practitioners

International Finance Centre

International Finance Centre, under construction, Hong Kong

Down by the seafront the International Finance Centre was in the process of being built. Absolutely enormous, by far the tallest building I’d ever seen, and I think at the time the third tallest building in the world. It’s one of those things you have to see to believe. The Bank of China building was also very impressive and I managed to get a few nice shots.

Bank of China Building

Bank of China Building, Hong Kong

The following day we headed for Peak Tower, an incredibly steep ride with stunning views at the top across the whole bay. Unfortunately the weather, or should I say smog, had closed in but very impressive all the same. We also had a look around the older parts on the main land, but decided against trying out any of the dried octopus, squid and whatever else they were serving up.

Performing Arts Centre

Performing Arts Centre, Kowloon Peninsula

The last night before we departed was spent down by a very packed front seeing in the New Year with quite a few Chinese let me tell you. We returned again for another day and a half on the way back, so in all experienced two New Year as at the end of January it is of course Chinese New Year. All the floats were out along the front, all very pretty. But I think by this stage we were just keen to get home.

Floats

Floats on the front, Kowloon Peninsula

Moscow, May 2003

My wife has, for as long as I’ve known her, always harboured a love of all things Russian. So for her 30th Birthday I thougt I’d surprise her by organising a long weekend in Moscow. It was only once booked that I began to read tales in all the travel guides of the widespread corruption and intimidation practised by the local police, giving on the spot fines for ‘passport irregularities’. We tried not to worry and boarded the plane with an open mind. On going through customs it was apparent that Russians weren’t the friendliest of people, and things only got worse when in Red Square I tried to pay for Pizza with a large note. The girl behind the counter was beside herself with rage! Blimey, I thought. Returning to our hotel on the Saturday night after a night at the Bolshoi (when in Rome) we had a car pull over from the other side of the road, with a couple of blokes getting out and shouting at us. We just kept our heads down and kept walking and thankfully they got bored and drove off. Moscow is indeed a very intimidating place. I’d like to say the receptionists at the hotel were very pleasant, but they couldn’t have been less helpful if they’d tried. It seems to smile in Moscow would hurt.

All that said, Moscow is an incredibly fascinating place. The history of the place is amazing, to see the likes of the Kremlin and Red Square something else. The hotel we stayed in was one of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’ that he had built in the Fifties to compete with the American Skyscrapers. A beautiful piece of architecture. The view from our hotel window was pretty special.

Hotel Ukrainia

Hotel Ukrainia, on the Moscow River, Moscow, Russia

Moscow River

Looking the other way up the Moscow River

We were also incredibly lucky in that on the Saturday we saw two Russian leaders in one day. In the morning we visited Lenin’s mummified body, which looking at him most be more wax than human remains these days, and then in the afternoon, whilst looking around the Kremlin we had the good fortune to see Putin too. He even waved at us! The reason for his appearance was because Paul McCartney had paid him a visit with his then wife Heather Mills. He was set to play in Red Square that night and so it was completely filled with rows and rows of seats, with a huge stage down one end. Not quite what I had in mind I have to say. So we first saw a very orange looking Paul McCartney with very natural looking chestnut brown hair, surrounded by bodyguards. Then a moment later out comes an even larger group of bodyguards with Putin leading the way. Well I never, I thought to myself.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to honor the dead of the Great Patriotic War, outside the Kremlin walls, Moscow.

Church of the Twelve Apostles

Church of the Twelve Apostles, Kremlin, Moscow

On the Sunday we travelled out, via there amazing tube, to Gorky Park, and paid a visit to Sculptures Park. Here is kept a large number of the statues that were torn down along with the Iron Curtain.

Stalinist Repressions Memorial

Stalinist Repressions Memorial, Sculpture Park, Moscow

Statues, Sculpture Park, Moscow

Statues, Sculpture Park, Moscow

One thing that took us completely by surprise was the heat. They only have 2 seasons, it leaps straight from winter to summer in Moscow, and I was totally unprepared. I didn’t even have a hat, and managed to burn my forehead so badly it actually swelled up. As we got on the plane home I was beginning to resemble the Elephant Man! Before we got on the plane however, we had one last scare. A soldier parading round the terminal inspecting passports. ‘Here we go’ we thought, but thankfully we escaped, with a couple of beads of sweat running down my forehead.

Am I glad I went? Hell yeah. Would I go again? Not on your life!

Canada and Alaska, May – June 2004

For me, there is nowhere more stunning than the Canadian Rockies. Much as I love New Zealand, there are maybe 3 or 4 beautiful glacial lakes to be had. In Canada there are maybe in the region of 30 odd! The sheer scale and majesty of the mountain range as you approach on the main road out from Calgary just takes your breath away. Its almost intimidating. Being America everything is on a much grander scale.

We were visiting Canada and Alaska on our honeymoon, so I almost felt guilty taking all my camera equipment with me (not really). The one mistake I made was booking the trip a little too early in the year (late May). If I’d done my research I’d have found out that the lakes I really wanted to shoot (Lake Louise and Moraine Lake) don’t actually thaw out until mid to late June. Its fair to say that I was absolutely gutted when I got to Lake Louise to find a layer of ice covering all but the very edges. Moraine Lake was actually shut off! Fortunately a couple of days later Lake Louise had thawed sufficiently to get some nice shots, and I think in retrospect I really like the inclusion of the snow and ice in shot.

Lake Louise

Lake Louise, Canadian Rockies

For me at least, it may be the best photograph I’ve ever taken. The location may be second only to Lake Pukaki in beauty. Its sits at the bottom of a natural amphitheatre, surrounded as it is by the mountains. When we arrived, before all the coach loads, it was just incredibly peaceful and serene, not to mention pretty cold! The colour showing through is just stunning.

Banff
Prior to travelling up to Lake Louise we spent the best part of a week in Banff. So many lakes here to photograph, so little time. We headed out one evening to the Vermillion Lakes to catch the sunset on Mount Rundle. Got quite lucky, with some nice pink in the sky and a nice still lake.

Mount Rundle

Mount Rundle, Vermillion Lakes, Canadian Rockies

Jasper
From Banff and Lake Louise we headed up the Icefield Parkway to Jasper. Headed out one clear morning at 5.30 to catch the sunrise on Patricia Lake. I’d been reading ‘When Bears Attack’, probably not a sensible thing to do as it puts the fear of God into you. To quote Bill Bryson I read saucer eyed the numerous tales of people being ripped to shreds by stalking bears. As I set up my tripod I noticed a massive paw print on the sand. ‘Eeek, definitely bear territory’ I thought but carried on unperturbed. On the way back past Pyramid Lake which sits right next to Patricia Lake, I just had to stop and set up again as the view was amazing. The resulting photo, its fair to say, has been my most successful photo to date, featuring in Outdoor Magazine as Photo of the Month.

Pyramid Lake

Pyramid Lake, Jasper, Canadian Rockies

Vancouver Island
From Jasper we took the long drive all the way down to Vancouver, meeting up with a couple of friends of Clare’s before making our way over to the far more peaceful Vancouver Island. Booked a trip out on a zodiac to see the Orcas, which fortunately for us, had just migrated back that day from warmer climes. We were treated to a large pod revelling in being back home, with a couple of them breaching, and alot of excited feeding.

Alaska
From Vancouver we then boarded a massive cruise liner bound for Alaska, the perfect antidote to 2 weeks of driving. Spotted our first bald eagles at Ketchikan, which soon became a regular sight as we moved up the West Coast. Booked a whale watch trip at Wrangell to see the humpbacks, but have to say it wasn’t the best. The Humpbacks were very shy, and as soon as one appeared 3 boats would descend upon it, which just sent it diving back down again. No bubble feeding on this particular day!

Continuing on up to Skagway we travelled up the Tracy Arm Fjord to see the giant Sawyer Glacier, before rounding off the trip at Haines.

Davidson Glacier
Had another one of those unforgettable days when we went to see the Davidson Glacier. Boarded a catamaran from Skagway and made our way through some beautiful fjords, spotting a humpback blowing on the way. Then we canoed upstream in beautiful weather to a very still lake full of icebergs calved off the Davidson Glacier that sits at the far end of the lake. One of the more pristine Glaciers I’ve seen (and you see quite a few in Alaska).

The Davidson Glacier

The Davidson Glacier, Haines, Alaska

Iceberg - Davidson Glacier

Iceberg, Davidson Glacier, Alaska

On the way back we visited a colony of seals, with a couple coming out to check out the boat. One of the guides suggested when we got back to Skagway to try a trail that leads out the back of the town and up to a beautiful lake somewhere in the forest. So we took her advice and began the walk. And then it happened. As we turned a corner a black bear was sat eating leaves to the right of the path. Panic immediately set in and we both legged it the hell out of there, and ran straight back to town!

From Skagway the liner headed back down to Vancouver, and after 3 and a half weeks it was time to come home, with the promise that I’ll return one day when the lakes are fully thawed!